Ian Robertson
California History
Road Trip Assignment
For my California Road Trip I visited Lake Merritt in Oakland. I've been here many times and it is dear to my heart but this road trip assignment was a great excuse to dig a little deeper and do some research on the lake.
Technically Lake Merritt is a tidal lagoon. It is connected to the bay and its water level rises and falls with the tides and level of rainfall. The water level of the lake is now monitored and regulated by the Oakland Flood Control System which uses pumps to move massive quantities of water between the lake and the bay. Fresh water runs from at least five different creeks and meets salt water from the bay. The picture below shows where Glen Echo Creek meets the lake. I've explored this creek in the past and it runs behind Piedmont Ave. and up to the cemetery or beyond (a cement wall prevented further exploration).
There lake's circumference is 3.4 miles and its area is 155 acres. It is surrounded by parkland and various community oriented and recreational buildings. There is a 3.1 mile path around it that is popular for joggers and walkers. I love doing bicycle laps around the lake when I don't feel like going into the hills.
One of the most notable historic features of the lake and its grounds is that it had the first Wild Life Refuge in North America. This was done in 1869 by the mayor, Dr. Samuel Merritt. Below you can see the main feeding area for the birds.
In 1925 the first artificial island was created as a haven for birds. Four additional "bird islands" were created in 1956. These islands are cordoned off from the rest of the lake so that boating activities do not disturb the birds. You can see a few of the islands below. These islands are teeming with birds!
The year round birds at the lake are Canadian Geese, Black Crowned Night Heron, Snowy Egret, Great Egret, Cormorant, American Coot, Western Gull, Mallard Ducks, and Pelicans.In the rainy season the lake sees Greater Scaup, Lesser Scaup, Canvasback, redhead, common and Barrow's Goldenye, Bufflehead, and the tufted Duck, which is a rare bird from Eurasia. Below is a shot of the Geodesic Dome which houses birds which are sick or injured. I am able to identify several of these by sight but I have a few more to learn.
The water flowing into the lake from the creeks and storm drains is a source of pollution. Phosphorus and Nitrogen cause algae blooms which deplete oxygen in the water. Aeration Fountains like the one shown below are used to increase the oxygen levels.You can also see the strand of lights that surround the lake called the Necklace of Lights. The reflections from these lights are gorgeous on the water at night!
The lake is home to the lovely Edoff Memorial Bandstand which was erected in 1923. You can occasionally hear a big band or or small orchestra play here, which is definitely a treat.
Children's Fairyland opened in 1950 as the first story book theme park in America. Children's Fairyland is utterly charming. It contains small building and sets based on classic children's story books. The Three Little Pigs, Alice and Wonderland, etc. It also some small rides, a train, puppet shows, a petting zoo. It is very cute and magical place. The park served as an inspiration for Disneyland and Walt Disney hired Fairyland's first executive director, Dorothy Manes and one of the puppeteers, Bob Mills. For years I pined to get in but adults must be accompanied by a child. I've now been a few times as a volunteer. Before the park opens some of the animals are allowed to roam and it appears that they live in a magical little village. This is unbelievably adorable. I highly recommend it for anyone who has kids under 10. It really is a treasure of Oakland. There are also animal and fairy tale statues throughout the park that tell stories when you use a special key. The keys are sold there but they are also considered collectible and I've heard of many parents passing down their childhood key to the next generation. This makes for a beautiful local tradition.
There are two boat houses at the lake. Paddle boats, row boats, and small sail boats can be rented. Goldolas from Venice can be chartered. A crew boat team operates as well as the Oakland Renegades dragon boat team.
I caught the Oakland Renegades on a day when they were hosting their Halloween Howl. They were hosting a race and party for fifteen different bay area teams.
The lake and its grounds are also host to a nature center that shows some of the current and past wildlife of the lake.
There are several gardens on the grounds as well - a place for the community to garden as well as a Japanese garden kept up by the staff. Growing up, my father kept a Japanese garden and bonsai plants so I always feel very at home here.
I always love the visiting the bonsai area.
Here is a shot of the lawn bowling court. I've never tried this as it doesn't particularly appeal to me.
Lake Merritt is an incredible component of Oakland. It brings me a ton of joy and makes me proud of my adopted city. With the Measure DD passing we are seeing a ton of improvements here. Lake Merritt is by no means pristine or immaculately maintained but it has no shortage charm! Having parks and nature areas like this in the middle of an urban environment can truly transform a city. Their power to relax and inspire us is very powerful. I think these kinds of spaces play a major role in creating the soul of a city. To be so close to downtown and see a bizarre renegade Chinese duck or Egyptian goose at the reserve has blown my mind. Central Park in New York City is of course a much more massive space but it also plays a similarly crucially role that city. It offers a respite and contrast to the bustling urban environment.
The following is an interview with Rocky, a coach from the Oakland Renegade Dragon Boat team.
Ian: When did you start paddling dragon boats?
Rocky: 2009. My wife got into it first and I followed pretty quickly.
Ian: When did the team here at the Lake start?
Rocky: It started of April 2009. The Renegades are a collaboration between the Oakland Parks and Recreation Department and some paddlers from the Dragon Boat community. People from the Alameda and Berkeley teams. New people are joining all the time.
Ian: This is a pretty competitive sport?
Rocky: Yes and no. It certainly can be and there are teams all over the world that compete intensely. We compete but it is more about having fun, getting together, picnics, beer. We have a lot of fun. We have boats of ten rows of 2 people and one additional steering person. in competition we add an additional drummer at the front of the boat to set the rate of the paddling.
Ian: What is the city's involvement with the team.
Rocky: The city owns the boathouse and the boats but we do pay for usage. They aren't running the team. That's made up of volunteers like me and a few others.
Ian: There looks like quite a mix of people on the team here.
Rocky: Yeah. We welcome everyone. You can super athletic and fit or…um…not. We tend to divide the group up into one more experienced team and one of newcomers.
Ian: It seems like a very different scene than the folks in the crewing boats across the way at the Lake Chalet.
Rocky: The crew teams require a much bigger financial investment from the participants. Classes are also required. Our dues are $45 a year. Considering that we have three practices a week that is pretty damn cheap.
Ian: What does this team and the lake mean to you and Oakland?
Rocky: Well the team is kind of a mirror of the diversity in Oakland. Everyone just kind of gets thrown in together. Different races, ages from people in their 20's to senior citizens. Different economic spectrums too. So I guess it is just everyone getting together and enjoying our beautiful lake, having a good time, and working hard as a team. I used to come to the lake as a kid. I've seen it really improve over the years. In the 70's and 80's it had a pretty bad reputation for crime and its smell.
Ian: Well as much as I love it there are certain times that it has a pretty funky smell.
Rocky: That's true. I think that's the algae. But, yeah the lake is really thriving these days with lots of joggers and all kinds of people taking advantage of it. Especially in the new park area opened up by Measure DD.
Ian: Yeah. There is a lot more activity here these days. Well you guys are an awesome addition to the lake and the community. It looks like a lot of fun
For more information on Lake Merritt you should go there! But here are some good websites as well.